The best laid plans...

STOP PRESS: It has been pointed out that the post entitled "Freezing and the Frisian Islands. Scheveningen, IJmuiden and Oudeschild" contained a grammatical error. The author of the blog wishes to convey his sincere apologies for this and to assure said complainant (Philippa) that his proof reader has been suitably punished. We trust that this swift and decisive action provides sufficient redress.

Now. Where were I?

Oh yes.

Vlieland our next destination?

Well, that was the plan but the wind had other ideas - remaining determinedly strong and from the north!

So, rather than stay in Oudeschild for a few more days, we decided to head for Harlingen where we could take the canals to Lauwersoog. It meant motoring (from Harlingen), but at least we would keep moving.

The sail across the Waddenzee to Harlingen was notable for a squall which dumped rain and winds of 30 knots on us shortly after leaving Oudeschild. Once the weather had got that out of its system, however, fair winds enabled fast and civilised sailing.

The only problem was that we couldn't afford to reach the last part of the Boontjes channel - not far from Harlingen - before 1700 (or so we thought) because there wouldn't be enough depth for us before then.

So we kept reducing sail and reducing sail to slow the boat down until I had just the genoa flying with 2 reefs in it!

When we got to the Boontjes channel it had clearly been dredged as there was far more depth than charted...

The IJsselmeer is behind that dam. Impressive stuff!

Harlingen from the Boontjes channel

Part of the "brown armada" viewed from the entrance to Harlingen

We elected to pass through the Tsjerk Hiddessluis and moor at the HWSV marina for a couple of nights. I'd called the harbourmaster there before leaving Oudeschild as I was concerned about the available depth. I told him our draught was 1.70 metres and asked him what the depth was in the marina. 1.70 metres he declared. You'll be fine! And we were. Just!

Inside the Tsjerk Hiddessluis. Nice lock. Loads to tie or hang on to!

Cyclone in her first box mooring of the trip. Facing someone's back garden!

The next day was spent walking around Harlingen and doing some shopping. Oh, and losing my credit card.

Just before leaving the UK I'd heard about a credit card from Revolut that you control using an Android App. The app enables you to top it up (it's a prepaid card), keep a check on spending and, of particular relevance here, disable the card if you should be daft enough to lose it. So disable it I did.

I then walked back to the supermarket where we'd been shopping, annoyed a queue of customers when the assistant I spoke to diverted the person serving them to search for my card, and returned empty handed to Cyclone. Where Jo had located the card.

Fortunately the app allows you to enable the card too, should you find it again!

Anyway, some pictures of Harlingen:

Which form of transport today, sir?

A fat bloke impersonating a goofy lion. I had lots of stuff in my pockets. Really!!

The Noorderhaven. Marina in the centre of Harlingen

More of the "brown armada"

The Zuiderhaven, Harlingen

Old and new. A modern ship through the ranks of old timers

Artistic shot (ish) of the Zuiderhaven

Catholic church in Harlingen

Characterful canal side property

Posh old hotel building

'Nuff said!

From Harlingen we motored through the canals past Leeuwarden, the capital of Friesland, to Dokkum. Once again we were treated to some bitterly cold wind and squally showers. Sunglasses were necessary to protect eyes from hail rather than the sun! So it was nice to tie up against the canal side (on our second attempt. Our first saw us stranded on the bottom, 6 feet from the bank!).

View on the Van Harinxmakanaal...

... and another...

... and another. How Dutch is that?!

Fly swatter bridge near Leeuwarden

Leeuwarden centre

Leaning Oldehove tower of a cathedral which was never completed. Leeuwarden

We saw a lot of these on the Dukkumer EE... No idea what's meant to live in them

There are some lovely canal side properties...

Opening bridge at Burdaard

Dokkum from Cyclone's bow

One of 2 working windmills at Dokkum

More pictures of Dokkum. Pretty ain't it?

And more...

... and more...

... and more

The province of Friesland is known for its Eleven Towns race, an ice skating tour on natural ice about 200kms long, passing through the 11 towns of Friesland. Dokkum is the 11th town of the tour and after receiving their stamp at De Zijl in Dokkum, the skaters turn around to start the final stage of the tour to Leeuwarden. The benches on the waterside at the turning point are shaped like Frisian skates and point in the direction the skaters should go.

Skate shaped bench

Another shot of Dokkum...

... and another

Saint Boniface was an important bloke in these parts but, according to the lovely lady in the tourist information office, "Not everybody liked him. They killed him." 25,000 to 40,000 pilgrims visit Dokkum every year apparently, so he must be good for business. Maybe they like him now?!

St. Boniface's chapel, built in 1934

Flotilla, Dutch style. Waiting for the lifting bridge in Dokkum

The second day of our visit to Dokkum was King's day. Now we're not really sure what that entails, but it's a public holiday so no doubt it's very popular. One tradition is for kids to set up stalls with their unwanted clothes and toys to sell in the city centre. Seems a good idea to me. Better than landfill!

Another tradition in Dokkum is the duck race. We sponsored a duck, but it didn't win. Mind you, looking at the picture below, I don't think the odds were very good!

Duck race Dokkum. Not sure which one ours is.

Come on number 001638!

And the winner is.... Not 001638 apparently

We were fortunate to meet a couple of Australians in Dokkum - Phil and Maree of Red Roo. They are also sailing to the Baltic and joined us for a few drinks and a hastily assembled pasta bolognese. It turned into a fine evening, enjoyed by all! We'll no doubt see more of them as we're heading in the same direction once we get to the Baltic Sea.

With a forecast of strong easterly winds for at least a week from Saturday evening, we decided to set off for the Kiel Canal on Friday morning (28th April). At nearly 150 nautical miles, this would be the longest trip we'd ever done and I think it's fair to say we weren't especially looking forward to it.

So, once again, our original plan - to call into Norderney - had to be replaced by another. It must be so much easier with a caravan Tim!

0930 on Friday morning saw us leave the canal side at Dokkum. 1045 saw the closure of the Nieuwe Sluis (a lock) just as we approached it "for about 1.5 hours" whilst some maintenance work was carried out. Fortunately after 30 minutes the lock keeper called us on the radio and said we could lock  through. His change of heart was very welcome as we needed to take on fuel just the other side of the lock and the fuel berth would shut for lunch  from 1200 to 1300!

After refuelling we continued along the canal to the Lauwersmeer, a large lake created by the construction of a dam separating it from the sea. Parts of this are very shallow and we ploughed a 50m furrow in the bottom with our keel as we crossed it! It was very gentle; we only knew we'd touched the bottom because our speed had dropped from 5 to 2 knots!

The Lauwersmeer

Traditional sailing craft on the Lauwersmeer

Then, at 1330, it was through the sea lock at Lauwersoog and into the North Sea once more.

Leaving the lock at Lauwersoog

Strange place for a shed!

The sands in the entrance channel to Lauwersoog move regularly and the buoys are continually being re-positioned to show where the deepest water is. With 20 knots blowing against the ebb tide, conditions in the channel were horrible, with large cresting waves lifting us up before dumping us unceremoniously 3 or 4 metres into a trough. We were making less than 2 knots through that lot directly into the wind under power but, thankfully, the tide was behind us and we cleared the worst bit in about half an hour. Then it was simply a case of turn right, get those sails drawing, and wait. For quite a while. We had about 85 miles to go before the entrance to the Elbe. That's about 17 hours at the 5 knots we use for passage planning.

The sea state was nothing like that in the Lauwersoog channel and we settled down to a fast, if slightly rolly, sail. Unsurprisingly, it got dark. This hardly mattered as there's nothing to see in any case. Anything we might manage to hit should have a light on it - albeit usually a pretty dim one.

So on and on we sailed, getting faster and faster as the tide turned in our favour. Far too fast as it happens, as we were planning (at 5 knots remember?) to reach the entrance to the Elbe at 1000, at which point the tide would whisk us nicely the 40 remaining miles to Brunsbuttel in the Kiel Canal.

There are dire warnings about being in the Elbe estuary during a wind against tide situation (which we would have until 1000) and, with the experience of Lauwersoog's channel still very much in our minds, we were a tad apprehensive about this, So we rolled away the head sail to try and slow down. Cyclone had other ideas, however, and just bounded along regardless.

So, with yet another bit of planning by the wayside, we arrived at the Elbe entrance no less than 5 hours too early! This meant plugging the tide (the sea state was fine, despite the warnings) as far as Cuxhaven - some 25 miles - with speeds as low as 2 knots over the ground! Then the tide turned on a sixpence and we were whisked the final 15 miles to the Kiel Canal at up to 9 knots!

Pretty? Maybe, but likely to mean rain and squally winds

Sun rise over the Elbe

Entering the Kiel Canal. That's a long step down for short legs, eh Jo?!

So, at 1430 Saturday afternoon, 146.1 miles and just 29 hours after leaving Dokkum, we tied up alongside at Brunsbuttel. That's an average of just over 5 knots - not bad as it includes waiting for bridges, 3 locks, deliberately slowing the boat down and a refuelling stop!

Alongside at Brunsbuttel watching the ships exiting the lock. Big, aren't they?

I think it's fair to say that we were a bit tired, but we still managed a shower, a bite to eat, and a glass of wine before finally crashing out soon after 2100. We're civilised like that!

This morning we were woken at 0530 by a bloke from the boat that had tied alongside us crashing across our decks - and back again - to go to the loo (I assume). Then again at about 0730 as the 2 of them crashed across - and back again - to have showers (I'm guessing). Then again - maybe to visit the bakery? Before making numerous trips to disconnect power and lines before finally departing at about 0830.

I now feel like I'm about 80 - sleep deprivation, the cold and an unstable platform for 29 hours do that to you!

Ah the pleasures of boating...

Freezing and the Frisian Islands. Scheveningen, IJmuiden and Oudeschild

We spent 4 nights - 3 days - in Scheveningen so we could meet up with Marjolein and Alfred, a Dutch couple we'd become friends with on our last trip to the Baltic in 2015. In fact, it was at Scheveningen that we'd met them 2 years ago, when we'd asked to raft alongside their boat in the harbour.

It was great to see them again and to catch up on what they'd been doing over the last 2 years whilst consuming tea, cake, Easter eggs, cheese straws and prosecco (not all at the same time!).

Scheveningen is like Den Hague (The Hague) on sea, as there's no real divide between the two places. We decided to burn off a few calories by strolling to, around and back from Den Hague - clocking up over 20,000 steps and 9.28 miles (according to my phone) in the process. We'd been there 2 years ago too, but took some more photos of the place in any case:

The Passage - posh shopping centre. We went in via the front passage...

Den Hague has canals too. Well, this is the Netherlands after all!

View from the balcony of the 42nd floor (the Penthouse) of the Hague Tower...

... and another...

... and another...

... and another.

Jo with her customary lunchtime champagne. Hang on, the exposure's not quite right...

That's better. You can see the view now!

The Hague Tower and balcony

Walking back from the Hague Tower we came across the demonstration below. A very eloquent and passionate supporter of the demonstrators explained to us that it related to the arrest and subsequent imprisonment in Den Hague of Laurent Gbagbo, the Ivory Coast's elected president, by France in 2011.

He went on to explain that France subsequently installed their own puppet leader who willingly traded with them at the expense of the Ivory Coast's own people.

He was very persuasive and it all seemed most unjust from what he'd said. As usual, however, there are 2 sides to every story. The summary of events published in the Guardian at the time of Gbagbo's arrest presents a very different perspective.

Protest relating to Gbagbo's arrest and imprisonment in Den Hague

Knight's Hall

Binnenhof - the Dutch Houses of Parliament

Not sure what's going on here!

Noordeinde Palace - the king's pad

The Peace Palace

The Peace Flame

After 4 nights in Scheveningen we were keen to move on and so, at about 0645 on Monday 17th April, we set off for IJmuiden - about 25 miles north.

Leaving Scheveningen

The forecast wasn't ideal as the wind would be coming from the direction we wanted to go, but it wasn't forecast to be more than 15 knots until late afternoon/early evening, by which time we'd be alongside.

Well, the weather is an unpredictable beast and, whilst the forecast proved accurate initially, the wind soon increased to the point where we were experiencing gusts of more than 30 knots over the decks. This made life interesting as the increase in wind happened quite suddenly, catching us with more sail up than we should have had for the new conditions. A flurry of activity ensued as the mainsail was reefed (made smaller) and a substantial part of the headsail rolled away.

This calmed things down a bit, allowing me to move forward along the deck to tension the headsail's leech line to stop it motoring (flogging rapidly on the trailing edge of the sail - making a din and delighting the sailmaker who's ready to cash in!). I cut this excursion short though after a further gust of wind saw Cyclone heel more and immerse her port side deck - the one I was standing on - into the North Sea. It's interesting looking down at your boots and watching the sea flow over them at 6 knots!

We had a fairly uncomfortable 5 of 6 hours of these conditions in a choppy sea and were glad to arrive at IJmuiden (we're wimps, you see. Our friends Tim and Natalie sailed their much smaller boat to the Caribbean and put up with far worse weather for 4 days or more when on route to Madeira!). I should stress that there's nothing dangerous about such conditions - the boat will put up with far more - it's just a bit unpleasant for those hanging on!

As we approached Marina Seaport IJmuiden I became aware of a rib following us with the word Politie on its side. Now my understanding of the Dutch language is not perfect, but I managed to work that one out. Sure enough, once we were alongside it tied up behind us and the Dutch inquisition (nothing like the Spanish one) began.

It was all very courteous and a matter of routine - checking passports, ships documents, VHF licence etc. - and naturally everything was in order. Everything that is except for the cabin which, following our earlier experience with too much sail up for the conditions, looked like it had been ransacked by intruders! I did my best to clear sufficient space on the floor for the immigration man to stand in order to carry out his cursory inspection!

Oh dear! I must replace those locker catches and the Velcro on the settee backs

There is loads of space for visitors in Marina Seaport IJmuiden so I'd chosen to tie up on a long pontoon (completely empty on our arrival) with a view from our orangery of the harbour entrance. Settled down for the evening and admiring said view, we (well, mainly I...) was rather miffed when a dirty great big Dutch barge chose to moor behind us in such a way that we could see nothing else! Why, when there's so much available space, do some skippers choose to moor on top of the only other boat there? Grrr...

Seaport Marina IJmuiden. We're on the long pontoon at the back - with the Dutch barge!

There are 2 walks marked on the tourist map of IJmuiden; the Bunker Route and Old IJmuiden. We opted for the latter, passing the start of the Bunker route on the way.

World War 2 bunkers

Now Jo's not always a fan of my walking tours. This is partly because once started they have to be completed (and nothing missed out) and partly because she's convinced that they're often compiled by Tourist Information personnel with the unenviable task of finding something of interest in a dull place.

Usually I find something to counter Jo's lack of enthusiasm but, on this occasion, I had to admit defeat (we did, of course, complete the walk in its entirely...).

You see, Old IJmuiden isn't really there anymore. The walk simply guides you from information board to information board - each depicting a photograph and explanation (rarely in English) of what used to be on that spot.

It would be uncharitable, however, to be scathing about this as it is all a sad consequence of World War 2. From the website https://www.ontdekoudijmuiden.nl/international/ which carries a huge amount of information in English about IJmuiden's history:

"At the end of the war Old-IJmuiden was in ruins. The buildings that were not completely demolished were heavily damaged by the many bombings of the harbour area. The total of destroyed buildings amounted to 3,190 houses, two churches, nine schools and 159 other buildings. Many more were damaged: 4,600 houses, ten churches and 363 other buildings. The old IJmuiden was never going to be the same again; many inhabitants of IJmuiden longed for the pre-war conviviality. After the war Old-IJmuiden was a sad and dilapidated place. Everywhere were empty spots, such as the completely wiped out police station and bandstand in what used to be Willemsplein. The Koning Willemshuis and Hotel Nommer Eén on Kanaalstraat, Café Cycloop on Prins Hendrikstraat: everything was bombed or demolished. Only the Gebouw voor Christelijke Belangen (Building for Christian Interests) on Enchedéplein, the old Mercurius on Breesaapstraat, Café Afslag, the old Planteijdt auction on Kanaalstraat and the Bell Telephone building near the old lock were still standing."

The rebuilding of Old IJmuiden was slow to get started and continues today.

Old IJmuiden walking tour information board with picture of what used to be on the spot

One of the few surviving buildings - German propaganda films used to be shown there...

IJmuiden's Vissershaven

Tata Steel works

Canal locks. IJmuiden is Amsterdam's link to the sea

With another 9 miles of walking behind us, I must start to lose some weight soon!

Now, apart from our view being blighted by a Dutch barge, there was another problem with our chosen berth. After we arrived, the wind increased further - to more than 30 knots of true wind - passing over a pleasant sandy beach before reaching Cyclone. The result was that we were steadily sandblasted and had visions of waking up under our own floating sand dune!

You'll have to enlarge the picture to see it, but Cyclone's covered in sand

This is why. That's Cyclone's mast to the right and the sandy beach to the left!

Sand waiting to descend on Cyclone

The harbour entrance from the beach above

The sand got everywhere - below decks too. I even found sand inside the chart table!

All things considered, we decided to move to a finger pontoon further from that beach. Result! Our view was back and no more sand!

Just after sunrise on Thursday 20th April, we set off for Oudeschild on the island of Texel - the most southerly of the Frisian islands. It was blooming chilly - hence the post's title - and a layer of ice covered the decks!

We'd waited an extra day in IJmuiden for decent winds and our reward was a fast sail as the wind veered from behind us to just aft of our beam.

Sunrise over the IJmuiden Tata Steel Works

I'd used part of our extra day in IJmuiden to replace our kicking strap with a Walder boom brake that I'd bought secondhand from a fellow CA member. As its name suggests, the boom brake slows the movement of the boom across the boat, thereby preventing potentially dangerous accidental gybes (when the boom crashes across the deck at high speed). Tension in the line holds the boom down, allowing the brake to perform the role of the kicking strap as well. Finally, the brake stops the boom from banging about when rolling downwind. It did this successfully on this trip, so it's looking promising so far.   

Goose-winging downwind. Note new boom brake

Lots of these passed us, flying low ready to land in Schiphol airport, Amsterdam

The lighthouse at Den Helder

The final approach to Oudeschild

Entering Oudeschild harbour

Pontoon mates. Ruddy turnstones?

Talking of pontoons, look at the length of those in the photo below. These are designated for 10-12m boats. Ours is 10m and they only come about half way down the length of the boat! They're also very narrow, low and bouncy.

Waddenhaven - Oudeschild Texel - gets very busy. But not in April!

The day after our arrival on Texel, we decided to go for a cycle ride. For us, this entails removing copious quantities of rope and miscellaneous other objects before lifting the two folding bikes from the bowels of the cockpit locker (eugghh!).

Naturally all 4 tyres were flat and, as luck would have it, one had a puncture too. New tube duly fitted, we set off on our tour of the island.

Fishing fleet in Oudeschild harbour

Jo. Untied from the galley for a bit of daylight. Entrance to Oudeschild in the background

The Den Helder to Texel ferry at its berth in in 't Horntje

We bought a small gift from here for someone who may be reading this! Be afraid!!

Dunes and bird watchers type place. There's lots of this on Texel

When it's spring again, the blah blah blah, tulips from Amsterdam Texel 

And again. Loads of 'em

Wilf's friends?

Typical street in Den Hoorn, one of only 4 towns on the island

Ahhh! Lambing time. Loads of sheep here and plenty of woolly sheep toys for the tourists!

Our trusty steeds tied up in Den Burg, Texel's biggest town

A Den Burg courtyard (B&B)...

... and a Den Burg shopping street

Marina's private beach

In common with most of the Netherlands it seems, there are cycle lanes everywhere. This makes cycling a rather pleasant way of getting around (except when you're pedalling into a strong headwind...). We probably cycled around 15 miles in total, only a couple of them being on the road.

Today is Saturday and a day of rest. The wind is howling across our decks and we're hoping for better weather tomorrow to whisk us to Vlieland, our next port of call.

Thanks for reading.