Monday 19 September 2016

That's all for 2016...

... nearly.

But first we had to lay up Cyclone for the winter - this time at Thornham Marina on Thorney Island.

So on Wednesday 14th September Jo and I stripped her of anything that might catch the wind whilst she was stored ashore. She looks a bit naked without her sails, sprayhood, liferaft and lifebuoy on deck, but better safe than sorry!

The following day I changed her engine oil and filter, gearbox oil and fuel filters. It's better to over-winter the engine with fresh oil in it, rather than with oil contaminated by the products of combustion.

On Saturday 17th it was time to fill her fuel tank (in a bid to keep the dreaded fuel bug at bay) before motoring her from Chichester marina to Thornham Marina - a distance of 7 miles.

The final approach to Thornham Marina was made "interesting" by the knowledge that we'd only just have enough water to float there at, or very near to, high water on a big spring tide. Going seriously aground wasn't an attractive option, as we could be there for some time!

In the event, we got to within about 5 metres of Thornham's deep water pool - from where Cyclone would be lifted - before getting (briefly) stuck in the mud. After about 5 minutes the depth increased sufficiently to allow us to motor through the narrow entrance to the pool. Phew!

We were seriously impressed by the welcome we got at Thornham Marina. What a friendly place! We were also very pleased to be offered an unexpected £75 discount on our storage charge because we were members of the Westerly Owners Association. The winter storage package even included a taxi back to Chichester Marina to pick up our car. Highly recommended.

I wanted to see Cyclone lifted out because I was curious about how dirty her hull would be and also wanted to check the state of her anodes, P bracket and cutlass bearing. Thankfully the Thornham team were happy to indulge me and they brought forward their planned lift of Cyclone from Tuesday to Saturday so I could watch.

They used a really impressive bit of kit to lift Cyclone and took real care of her whilst doing so. The photos show the process:

The lifting equipment is prepared, with the strops being cleaned and positioned to suit Cyclone's dimensions

The whole lift is then driven by remote control into the water...

... and underneath Cyclone. The lift is almost completely submerged - including its engine! That's the engine's air intake and exhaust at the front left of the picture

Once everything's been carefully positioned. the lift - complete with Cyclone aboard - is driven out of the pool

There she is...

... ready for a jet wash

I had expected Cyclone to have far more weed and slime on her than she had. She was actually remarkably clean considering that the antifoul paint had been on for 2 seasons. We'd obviously washed off the beard she'd had on her waterline earlier in the season whilst sailing - surprisingly, as I couldn't shift it with my broom whilst swimming off the Iles de Glenans!

Sadly my suspicion that her cutlass bearing was worn (a plain bearing in the P bracket that supports the shaft just forward of the propeller) proved to be accurate. Unfortunately the rudder has to be removed to allow the shaft to be withdrawn before the bearing can be replaced. The P bracket itself may be in need of some reinforcement too (I'll need to take advice on that one).

As for the anodes, there was no sign of the one that should have been on the propeller shaft. The main one was still there, but badly eroded (a good thing, as it means it was doing its job).

So that's it until April 2017.

But first a summary of our trip:

Facts and figures

Total distance travelled (through the water):  1466 Nm (1663 miles)

Total number of places visited:                      51

Total fuel used:                                             238 litres (52.3 imperial gallons)

Total cruising expenditure:                            £6500 approx.

There's not a lot to say about the distance travelled except that we used tides wherever possible to speed us on our way, so the actual distance over the ground would have been greater. Over 1000 Nm less than in 2015 though!

We actually moored up or anchored a total of 60 times, but we stayed in some places more than once and anchored close to a marina that we later visited on occasions too. Our longest stays were in Saint-Valery-sur-Somme, Camaret and Audierne - about a week in each case.

We motored more than we would have liked - a total of 187 hours. We just didn't seem to get the good sailing winds we'd enjoyed last year.

I was surprised when I totalled up our expenditure as I thought it would have come to more than that. It's actually less than the £8000 we spent last year and yet it seemed like things were more expensive - particularly once Brexit had compromised the exchange rate. I suppose last year's figure included nearly £500 for the Gota canal and a total of about £100 for the other canals. It also included around £1000 for charts, a new autopilot and a device to make picking up stern buoys easier; as well as an extra 80 litres of fuel.

Both figures include about £600 worth of wine (at UK prices) that we brought back to keep us warm over the winter, but neither include the cost of leaving our house idle - over £350 per month for council tax and utilities payments alone (we really must rent it out soon!).

Wear and tear

The only actual breakage we had this year was the starter motor, but there is wear and tear that will need to be attended to over the winter. As well as the cutlass bearing and P bracket mentioned earlier, we will have to replace the headsail and that won't be cheap. Then there's the cost of antifouling and storing Cyclone while we're not using her (about £1500) that always gets conveniently forgotten!

Jo's made further repairs to our stackpack and sprayhood but both really need to be replaced now. We'll see if it's practical to get them re-stitched first though, as it's UV damage to the stitching rather than the material itself that's the problem. We replaced the standing rigging at the end of last year (at a cost of over £2000) so at least that should be OK for another 9 years!

France as a cruising destination

We saw many beautiful places on our travels as I hope is evident from the photos we've posted. Brittany has a particularly attractive coastline and we'd certainly recommend a holiday there - by boat or by car.

I know we shouldn't complain(!) but we often found it too hot for us - so much so that we've abandoned (for the time being at least) our plans to head further south and into the Mediterranean.

In our opinion, France can't match the Baltic as a cruising destination. This isn't a criticism of the place as, in all probability, no single country could. We like France. We've visited it many times in the past and wouldn't hesitate to go again - although we'll probably fly or get the ferry next time!

After more than 5 months in France we were ready to come home. We'd still recommend it as a great place for an extended cruise, but maybe for 3 months rather than 5 plus.

Cruising in general

At the end of our Baltic cruise last year we summarised how we felt about longer term cruising. Looking back at what we wrote I think the balance has shifted a little.

We didn't get the same stimulation, variety or sense of adventure/achievement from this year's cruise that we got from last year's and maybe we're missing some of the trappings of a decent income more than we did before!

Still, you can't have everything and I'm in no rush to go out and get another job just yet.

If we head to the Baltic again next year - we'd like to visit Poland, the Baltic States and maybe even Russia - that will probably be the decider for us. If we have a great time we'll carry on. If we're all cruised out, then maybe it will be time for us to do something else.


We hope you've found this blog useful and/or entertaining.

All the best,

Rob and Jo

Sunday 11 September 2016

Guernsey, Cherbourg and Home once more!

If you read our last post you'll know that we had a bit of extra time to kill in Guernsey whilst waiting for a replacement starter motor to arrive. The weather was a bit gloomy, as the photos below show, but we went for a stroll anyway.

Looking over the Little Russell channel

Cute little rock garden. No idea why...

Fish farming in one of the flooded quarries?

Bordeaux harbour

I bet her house pongs of wet dog!!

A call from the Lucas dealership confirmed that the starter motor had arrived - the day after it was ordered. They delivered it to the marina that same afternoon.

I'd hoped to be able to fit it without draining down the cooling system and disturbing the heat exchanger, but I was out of luck. I'd been able to remove the solenoid from the old starter motor, creating enough space in the process to wriggle it out. Unfortunately the one on the new starter was secured with crosshead screws with heads made of cheese. There was no way I could budge them - the heads just burred over when I tried - so what should have been a quick job turned into a 5 hour one!

I took the opportunity to reconnect the calorifier while the system was drained down though, so we have the luxury of hot water once more.

When the time came to test it, all seemed to be well with no leaks from the cooling system. The Volvo's plumbing is a Heath Robinson collection of copper pipes held in place by the location of the parts they link and some rubber seals. I'm amazed it's watertight at all!

So on Wednesday 7th September, 2 days later than planned, we set sail for Cherbourg. The 41 miles was against the wind, but at least we had the tide with us - up to 6 knots of it in the Alderney race - for all but the last 10 miles. We even had a civilised 0850 departure time (we'd have left earlier if we could, but we needed to wait until there was enough depth for us to float over the sill to exit Beaucette).

Cap de la Hague - more gentle with us this time than in the past!

Entering Cherbourg outer harbour. If I don't look behind, the ship won't be there...

Cherbourg was an essential stop to re-provision for the winter (i.e. stock up on cheap wine!). Even with the less favourable exchange rate post Brexit, wine boxes in France are still half the price of their equivalents in England.

With a forecast of SW4 or 5, increasing 6 at times (wind in Beaufort), fair (not wet), moderate (sea state), good (visibility), we set off for Chichester harbour at 0350 (take an hour off that for BST!) on Friday 9th.

I wouldn't choose to do a channel crossing with a F6 on the nose but, with the wind behind us, the apparent wind (the wind across the deck) should be less than 20 knots for most of the time. In the event, we saw no more than 18 knots and often it was quite a bit less than that - so much so that, at times, we had to motor (again!!).

The sea state was moderate as forecast but the swell was coming from abeam, rolling Cyclone around like a metronome. It went in cycles so that, for a few seconds, all was flat calm. Then Cyclone would start to roll gently to one side and then back to the other. The rolling amplitude would continue to increase until she was rolling 20 degrees to one side followed by 25 degrees to the other. And then it would all slowly decrease until it was flat calm once more. Repeat. Repeat. For 14 hours...  

The sun rising over the English Channel

A rather murky St. Catherine's Point (Isle of Wight)

Our (almost) finish line, West Pole off the entrance to Chichester Harbour

We found a vacant mooring in Itchenor Reach and tied up to it for the night. Then, soon after 0800 Saturday morning (BST now) we set off for Chichester Marina. Cyclone will remain there until Saturday 17th when she will take up residence ashore at Thornham Marina for a well earned rest.

We're back home now courtesy of our fantastic neighbours, Janet and Geoff, who not only looked after our house in our absence - including making the gardens (front and rear) look far neater than they ever do when we're at home - but also picked us up from the marina. We are very, very fortunate to have them as friends and neighbours.

Last night we had a takeaway, slobbed on the sofa with a film on the TV and retired to a square bed.

Luxury!!

Monday 5 September 2016

Roscoff, Guernsey and a self destructing starter motor

We'd expected Roscoff to be a sprawling port town and so were pleasantly surprised when it turned out to be quite small and really rather attractive.

Maritime trade apparently flourished here until around 1700 when a combination of wars, hazardous routes and a ban on trade with belligerents encouraged shipowners to stop trading and take up privateering. From privateers they became buccaneers and then, after 1763, smugglers - introducing huge quantities of tea, wine and other beverages into England, where customs duties were very high. This fraudulent traffic became obsolete in 1786, however, after an agreement on trade between France and England was signed that lowered taxes on spirits.

Roscoff also has an association with Alexandre Dumas, author of the Three Musketeers. He apparently spent a summer there in 1869, writing the "onion" chapter of his Great Dictionary of Cuisine!

Finally in the potted history department, a 6 year old Mary Queen of Scots came ashore in Roscoff en route to meet the king of France to whom she'd been betrothed.

But enough of the words. Time for some pictures!

The coast adjacent to the marina

A Roscoff house with a rather attractive garden

So the Vieux Port is which way exactly?

Roscoff Vieux Port - a bit lacking in water

Looking across the Vieux Port to its entrance

The Chenal de L'Ile de Batz. We sailed through that at high water! Oo-er...

More of the Chenal de L'Ile de Batz...

...and more

...and more...

...and more. That's the Ile de Batz ferry pontoon from which...

...this picture of Roscoff town was taken

A close up of Roscoff. Interesting mix of architecture wouldn't you say?

Roscoff town street scene...

...and another

No idea what the dragon's doing up there. Is it dead?

Chapel of St Barbe. Apparently he was a bit of a live wire (geddit?)

There's always a bit of modern "art" isn't there? This one's on the marina's breakwater

We'd deliberated for a while over where to go next after Roscoff. In the end we decided to head directly to Beaucette on the island of Guernsey for a combination of the following reasons:
  • In southern Brittany the peak marina season (and prices!) was limited to July and August. We'd confidently expected the same to apply in the north but, to our dismay, the peak season here actually includes September too. £25 a night(ish) would inevitably take its toll on our funds. 
  • We'd visited most of the ports to the east and north of Roscoff previously, so we'd be covering old ground if we made our way around the coast to Cherbourg. 
  • We were also a little weary of cruising and ready, as Jo would put it, to sleep in a square bed!
  • We've got lots of work to do on our house this winter.

Preferring to arrive in daylight if possible, we set off into the blackness of 0430 French summer time - 0330 UK.

It was dark too, but what a fantastic sky! You don't see that many stars with the light pollution where we live!

The best bit about setting off in the dark is watching it get light - partly for the beauty of the sun rise and partly because you then have a chance to spot pot markers before you run over them and get their lines tangled in your propeller! Yes, we had to motor sail once again for much of the way, This is becoming an unwelcome habit!

Sun rise over the Sept Iles

More great sky...

... and yet more

The blue bits are sail repair tape - holding poor old Cyclone's head sail together!

St Peter Port's harbour from the Little Russell

Beaucette marina was formerly a quarry. The Royal Engineers blew a gap through its rocky exterior to allow local and visiting boats to be accommodated within its secure surroundings. We think it's a bit special and so always choose to stay there in preference to St Peter Port. It's a bit out of the way and, apart from a pricey restaurant, fantastic views and great coastal walks, there's not a lot there - which suits us. It's quiet and we like that.

The entrance to Beaucette marina

It's 13.5m wide apparently, but it doesn't seem like it when you're going between those rocks!

Er... A cow Elvis. (One of Jo's!)

From Beaucette, you can get a bus to anywhere on the island for £1. We've used this before to take an anticlockwise route around the whole island to St Peter Port - enjoying the views on the way.

Apparently others have now cottoned onto this as, when the bus arrived at our stop, there was standing room only. The bus was full of wrinklies who'd presumably got on at St. Peter Port and weren't getting off until they'd circumnavigated the island and returned there. A 50 minute standing bus journey (after standing 30 minutes at the bus stop) wasn't quite what we'd envisaged!

Our visit to St Peter Port coincided with a hill climb event. Cars, motorbikes and karts took turns to race up a closed (and very twisty) public road against the clock, This provided quite a spectacle with a huge variety of vehicles taking the challenge. Unfortunately it was interrupted when, perhaps inevitably, a motorcyclist had an accident and an ambulance had to be called, We hope he's ok.


St Peter Port's hill climb, with bikes...

...karts...

...pukka racing cars...

...road cars, including Westfields - I had one of them...

...and a Ford Anglia! Did your's have a Cosworth engine Tim?

Castle Cornet, St Peter Port

St. Peter Port coast...

...and shopping street

On our second day in Beaucette, we decided to go for a walk around the nearby coast. We weren't out for long as the weather was pretty miserable, but the pictures give a good idea of the place:

Cyclone tied up in Beaucette marina with the entrance to left of shot

The beach just north of Beaucette. There is a sandy one a bit further on too!

Fort Doyle and Jo behind bars. About time, eh?!

Take aim...... FIRE!!

Another nearby coastal scene

At 0745 Monday morning, after 3 nights at Beaucette, we were ready to head for Cherbourg.

Fate, however, intervened and a turn of Cyclone's "ignition" key produced a horrid mechanical sound followed by a whirr of the starter motor - and nothing else.

Fearing the worst - stripped ring gear on the flywheel which would, in all probability mean boat out of the water and then engine out of boat for a repair (megabucks) - I set to the problem with my tools (and a huge amount of trepidation!).

When I was able to withdraw the starter motor, this was what I found:

Those loose bits are part of the casting and are meant to be attached...

... something like this, only without the gaps!

Fortunately I was able to retrieve all the broken bits from the bellhousing and a very helpful harbour master took me to the local Lucas dealership in his van. They didn't have a replacement in stock but hope to have one in tomorrow or the next day. Until then we're stuck here.

But there are worse places to be and better it happened here than when approaching a tricky harbour entrance!

Thanks for reading.